Water Heater Leaking: What to Check
Why the location of the water matters
A drip at a connection is not the same problem as water coming from the tank body. Fitting leaks and T&P discharge can sometimes be repaired. A corroded tank that is leaking from the bottom usually means replacement.
Common sources
- Inlet or outlet fittings and flexible connectors
- Drain valve drip
- Temperature and pressure (T&P) relief valve discharge
- Condensation on a cold tank in a humid room (not always a leak)
- Leak through the tank shell or base
What to do right away
- If water is pooling on the floor, keep people and electricity away from standing water.
- Shut off power at the breaker for electric units, or set the gas control to off/pilot only if you can do so safely.
- Shut the cold-water supply valve on top of the heater if you can reach it.
- Call for help. A tank dumping water is urgent.
Emergency path: emergency plumbing. Repair vs replace: repair or replace guide.
Not every drip is a failed tank
A small drip at a threaded fitting after a recent install, or a T&P line that drips when the system over-pressurizes, needs diagnosis, not an automatic full replacement. Lukewarm water with a dry floor is usually a scheduled visit, not an emergency.
Request service on the water heaters page, or call if water is still spreading.
Related pages
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Frequently asked questions
Is a leaking water heater always an emergency?
If water is spreading across the floor or the tank itself is leaking, treat it as urgent. A slow drip at a fitting with the floor mostly dry can often wait for a same-day or next visit, but do not ignore it.
Should I drain the tank myself?
Only if you know the drain path and can do it safely. Many homeowners should shut supply and power/gas first, then wait for a technician rather than wrestling a stuck drain valve.